Cafe culture
After a week and a half in Paris, I have two observations about the cafes there.
Thing 1: Many of them have outdoor seating, and most of that seating faces the sidewalk.
Thing 2: When you order coffee, you get espresso.
On the first point, initially I thought it was odd. Diners sit next to each other, table between them, watching the pedestrians go by. I quickly came to appreciate it. I’m an unabashed people watcher, and Paris has a wild assortment of humanity to watch. The simple act of changing chair orientation also had the effect (for me, anyway) of changing the dining experience. When two diners face each other, a natural capsule forms between them. Sitting next to each other and facing the street, that capsule felt no less strong. Yet it also now included a whole world of other diners and passers-by.
On the second point, drip coffee appears to be a rarity. I think I only saw one coffee maker - the one in our rental apartment. I love coffee in all forms and concentrations, but Paris gave me renewed affection for espresso. Even the quick crepe stops - places where you might expect an inferior shot - did it justice. I savored every demitasse, especially since a single shot cost 3 euro, or about $4.50.
About a week after returning the the States I had a chance to go to Caribou, one of my favorite java haunts. Guess what I ordered? After I got my drink, a double shot for under $2 (Go U.S.A.!), I strolled to the outdoor seating. With my chair facing the sidewalk, I sat and whittled away at a stack of library books. Between chapters, I’d take a sip and watch the world go by.